Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
